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The character of traditional Rioja depicts many more flavors from the cellaring than from the fruit: sawdusty and vanillin American oak barrels, damp earth, soft forest floor, and white mushrooms dominate over the ripe and underripe red cherries and plums that are most often the baseline fruit notes. Beronia's 2006 is all that, but with American oak dialed back and snappy, juicy red fruits pushed forward.
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